Sunday, July 26, 2015

What it means to bear witness....

Today I visited Dachau in Munich. It is the site for one of the first concentration camps set up by the SS for the persecution and extermination of Jews and other undesirables/non-conformists (political rivals, communists, Gypsies, disabled and homosexuals). The Dachau site was used as a prototype to build the other 25 major camps in Europe and to train the early groups of SS men in the ways of inflicting torture and humiliation. My visit to Dachau has left me with more questions than answers about human beings, but first, I want to recount my experience visiting Dachau, so I can record this for the future and so I too can bear witness......

Let me start by saying that our tour guide was a highly spirited lady, let me call her M. M presented all the information with tremendous, yet controlled passion. It seems M got interested in understanding more about the holocaust at 15 years of age, because of the influence of her history teacher… Makes one really think about the quality of education we impart to our younger generations, for they will become tomorrow’s Ms or Gandhis or Malalas or MLK Jrs or they might become tomorrow’s Hitlers or Mussolinis or Gadaffis or George Zimmermans.

Coming back to Dachau, when you arrive in the town and as you drive into the memorial camp site, what strikes you are the apartment buildings close to the site. M told us that these buildings go way back and have stood witness to the horrors that ensued at Dachau. Moreover, it also meant that the people inhabiting those buildings and living in the town nearby KNEW what was happening at this camp and yet chose to say/do nothing. Several women from the town were involved with or married to the camp SS officers but they too were either oblivious of the happenings at the camp or wished to know nothing about it.

As you enter the camp site, you can see the remnants of what used to be the “welcome building” used for inducting new inmates. M proceeded to tell us of the cruel ways used by the SS men to further humiliate their new arrivals – one of which included having a metal pin poke through the bottom of the chair in which a new arrival would be sitting – to force him to get moving so the next arrival could take his place( and be inducted) hence saving the officer in charge the “labor” of saying “next”…..It makes you think of the level of de-humanizing that had to have taken place in the minds of these officers to treat another human being so vilely. Ironically, I only wish it had stopped at that….

As you go further, the gate of the camp greets you with the painful and cruel message: “Arbeit macht frei” – “Work makes you free”. I am sure anyone can guess what “freedom” that referred to. Next M took us to the museum which displays the few belongings that the inmates brought with them: Pictures of a loved one, a post card, a letter, official identification papers…Makes you think very bitterly about what must have been going through the person’s mind as he chose to put that in his pocket. Unfortunately you cannot help but think, what you’d take with you if something like this happened to you and here is the really sad part, there still are people in today’s world that are forced to make this cruel choice everyday….

Next we visited the sleeping barracks of the inmates. Small tiny military beds lined the rooms. It seems the inmates were given straw to use as a mattress to sleep on. Unfortunately, straw much like creativity, happiness and individuality (all three of which the SS stamped out under its jackboots) does not take too well to being constrained to a wooden frame. Punishments, beatings and even death could be the result of an apparently “unkempt bed”..In a place where humans were treated worse than animals, beaten on a whim, insulted and humiliated beyond compare, pictures of shining, polished floors, spotless soup cups and neatly tucked beds made me sick to the stomach.

Visiting the bathrooms brought a new horror. These bathrooms were the sights for the most brutal punishments that often involved hanging the inmates by hooks, causing wrists and/or shoulders to be dislocated, making the inmate unfit for labor and hence fit for the gas chambers, which again ironically were fitted with similar nozzles as the bathrooms.

As the tour finished, one thing became very clear in my mind….PEOPLE ARE THE SAME ALL OVER THE WORLD. No matter how enlightened we might be, how educated, how cultured and well-traveled, all of us are a little (or a lot) racist, bigoted, prejudiced and broken. 

Here are the two questions that have been haunting me since I left Dachau:
1.     How do normal people, people you’ve worked with, neighbors, customers and classmates suddenly become perpetrators of such heinous crimes? What light switch goes off that makes a person suddenly stop seeing another as a living, sentient human being? It has to be more than just” men following orders”… it has to be a much much higher level of mental and physical buy-in. M told me that several SS officers were questioned at the end of WWII, in an attempt to understand if they had psychopathic tendencies, resulting in such horrific behavior. It was found that 95% of them were perfectly normal people, loving husbands, dutiful sons, doting fathers (the son of an SS officer who had visited Dachau told M that his father was a “good, loving man”)…. These officers were just convinced that they were doing the right thing, they were sure that these inmates were lower life forms and they were happy to be doing what they were.
Slavery, persecution of African Americans, Apartheid in South Africa, Caste system in India, massacres of one African tribe by another…. Clearly we have learnt nothing and have hence been condemned to repeat history again and again and again.

2. If indeed: "The Only Thing Necessary for the Triumph of Evil is that Good Men Do Nothing" then why did the “good” people not do anything? My hypothesis is that some of them were afraid of persecution themselves, but my gut says that most of them were happy about what was happening to their neighbors and colleagues and acquaintances. I am sure most of them had the others’ jobs/ shops/ businesses/ houses/ cars/ possessions already earmarked for themselves… Jealousy and coveting someone else’s things is a vile thing… it made spies out of comrades in the Soviet Union, it made life-long friends in Pakistan & India (during partition) covet the other’s house….it made informants out of neighbors in Kashmir, ensuring that the ones fleeing would be forced to abandon all belongings and leave barely with their lives….Unfortunately no world peace, food, water, electricity, houses, cars, riches for everyone will bring an end to such coveting….
Mankind will always find something new to covet, to kill over, to draw lines on a map over, to build a Dachau over…………..







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